Last night I decided that I was heading to Lakey Peak, Sumbawa to meet up with Cody and Tom, two friends I made at Manta. Originally I planned to buy a plane ticket for Oct 29 but for whatever reason the online system would not accept my card for the 29th but it would for the 28th. Have no clue why, but don’t matter, I am so ready to find some fun waves again. A scene change, new waves, and a fun looking swell in the near future are all I need for the excitement and anticipation of a good surf mission. Unfortunately, I have to eat the cost of the extra night in Ubud I paid for but it is time to go off on the next adventure.
Today is going to be a ridiculous day of travel. Since my flight to Bima, Sumbawa is at 3pm, I have to get to the airport at 1 at the latest, which means I’ve got to leave the boys’ house where my boards are at 12, which means I need to be on the road from Ubud at 9am to give myself plenty of time.
Wake up nice and early, breakfast at the hotel, drive down the mountain and through Denpassar. Rush to Bingin to Griffin and John’s house to pick up my stuff and surfboards and call a cab back to Denpasar airport. Totally on a mission, I fly through Denpassar, make no stops, and return my beautiful red scooter in Uluwatu. This scooter was my dependable steed for the past month or so in Bali, it did me well, even though it was a piece of shit, and I loved it. Small and rickety, temperamental starts, dim lights at night, she got the job done.
It kinda worked out for me to leave today because the boys had to move houses today abruptly. It was a pleasure meeting these two dudes, they showed me around Uluwatu, and we had some great times together. Particularly John, he, Diego and I will always be bonded by that incredible Desert Point strike mission we shared together. Hope to see him again in the water one day.
The Denpasar airport is fine in terms of getting through security and making your way through the terminals. It kinda turned into a shitshow because every 20 minutes it kept changing gates. My flight actually changed gates like four times during my wait. I would watch the screen, see the new departure gate number, head there, sit down for a minute, and then see it change, and repeat. Finally, 10 minutes before departure it settled down. There at the final gate I was approached by Miao, a 26 year old Chinese girl, asked me if I was going to Lakey Peak. After confirming that I was, she suggested we split the cost of the expensive 2-3 hour taxi to Lakeys. We also got two Aussies in on it, Tom and Sam. In the plane we sat on the tarmac for around an hour in 90 degree humid heat. Every single plane I’ve ever been in, in my life, is freezing, so I’m wearing my long sleeve. Here the AC isn’t working or something, it’s a sauna and everyone is sweating and fanning themselves. Guys are taking off their shirts. I feel bad for the old lady next to me completely covered from head to toe in her clothes. She might have a heat stroke if this plane doesn’t get going.
In Bima, the four of us get our boards, and Miao took care of all the logistics. She comes to Lakey Peak all the time, she loves it, and wants to buy a property here because she’s kinda done with the crowds in Bali. She came to Bali like 6 years ago and fell in love with surfing, eventually moved to Kuta a year or so before the pandemic and really started taking it seriously. She found the taxi, told me who to pay, who owes who what, etc. I just rolled in on cruise control, really cool of her and I’m super grateful for this after so much traveling already. On the drive she explained which spots work on what tide, how the wind is the biggest factor at Lakey Peak, so get up early, etc. A super frothed out surfer girl super eager to share her knowledge, how great.
The drive to Lakeys was largely at night so I didn't really get to see much of what was going on. Sumbawa is much more impoverished than Bali, small huts made of wood with tin roofs line the roads in patches outside towns, Muslim (calls to prayer popping off), and arid. Obviously lots of greenery around but this place could really use the rain.
Immediately on arrival to where my accommodation is at Lakey Peak, a bunch of dudes crowd the taxi, try to help unload the boards, and make you rent a scooter from them. I know I want a bike anyways but it’s a little off putting to be forced to get one, I basically couldn’t get into my place ‘til I had committed to one for a week. Tom and Cody have been here for a few days already and rented Lakey A La Vue, a small 3bd 1bath living space above the little convenience store right infront of the Lakey Peak tower. They gave me the smallest little room of the three but the bonus being that it faces directly into the wave, I can see the famous Lakey Peak breaking while I lay in bed. Sweet little zone. A long 12 hours of travel from Ubud to Lakeys, I’m stoked to be back at the waves with friends and some fun looking swell coming up.
Here is Surfline's blurb on Lakey Peak:
An epic, world-class, intense, top-to-bottom peak - the lefts being longer and the rights being shorter and much gnarlier and backdoor-able. Both are very hollow, allowing for ample tube time. Rarely flat, Lakey catches all sorts of swells, but unfortunately is blown-out each afternoon. Clearly not a wave to miss if you visit Sumbawa. Better yet, base yourself here and enjoy the options of other high-quality waves in the immediate vicinity, like Periscopes.
Wake up super early, like 6, to go surfing out front at Lakey Peak. The waves are super fun and head high but not barreling. It’s a high performance wave, like the Lowers left, perfect for turns but it’s not the Lakey Peak you imagine or the reason why you come. Honestly, it’s perfect for me right now, haven’t surfed good waves since G-Land and playful rippable lefts is not a bad way to get back into the flow. Great session, working on my frontside. The sun is super strong, I feel the heat pump even by like 8am. By 9 am the onshore wind starts flowing. You can still get waves in the onshore but I don’t like how my board feels navigating chop. I got a good 2.5 hour window, I’m happy.
Below are some fun sequences of me on today's waves:
The little village around Lakey Peak, fully set up for surfers, a few hotels and homestays, a few restaurants, is really small. Bigger than Desert Point but you can walk the length of the Lakey Beach in 10 minutes. Out front of course is Lakey Peak, the world class barreling A-frame, I’m only looking at the lefts. To the left of it, 5 minute paddle, is Lakey Pipe, a barreling left hander, kinda advanced wave that works when the swell picks up a little bit. There are sick waves ten minutes by scooter in either direction from here all with their own intricacies and beauty. Tons of fun to be had if you can find these waves in their correct window before the onshore wind knocks it all down. There’s a few options for getting food but the one I figure we’ll be at the most is Fatmahs. It’s one of the only ones that has a view of the waves, good selection of western and indo food, beers, a little cafe on the side, and games. The surfers staying at Lakeys cruising in and out of this hang out zone.
Around lunch time I realize there are a shit ton of kids on the beach. On my way to the crib many of them approach me and we begin a hilarious chat. Today is Sunday, means day off from school and an opportunity to practice English with all the gringo surfers/tourists at Lakey Peak. “What is your name? Where are you from? How long are you staying? Who did you come with?” It must be a school assignment because as soon as I finish answering these four questions, the next kid asks me the same thing. Answer these again and a third kid starts over. “Okay guys we can talk but you have to ask me different things, I’m not just gonna repeat myself over and over.” They’re real sweet and trying to raise money for their school, one invites me to come speak to the class as his guest. “Where is your school?” “Dompu, like an hour away.” Dompu was one of the towns I passed on my way here last night. “No thanks, I’m going to stay in Lakey Peak.”
Didn’t surf again, watched the sunset on our roof top with some beers. This is how the days go here. Surf early while the wind is good and then pray for a second sesh somewhere or just chill.
Oct 30
Today the swell is up, and Lakey Peak is doing Lakey Peak things. Remembering how the wind came up early yesterday, I set my alarm for 5 am. I need to maximize the clean surf window before it is too late. It’s low tide, just a handful of us surfers, the left is going into dry reef, kinda sketchy, you have to kick out early. “What am I doing here?” But since it was a full moon last night the tide is rising incredibly fast, bringing water over the reef and increasing the wave height as well. By 7am, waves are totally glassy and the surf is pumping 6-8ft barrels, California standards, perfect. Drop in and pull in. Guys are getting real good waves and the handful of us are in a great groove and rotation. A couple French dudes are ripping, Tom the Aussie is as well, such a good early morning surf sesh.
Got several waves, felt in rhythm, felt good, but also got pinched on the exit on many. Did manage a terrific left barrel. It was my turn to go and a big ol’ A-frame came right to me, maybe 6ish ft. Dropped in, held a drawn out bottom turn and made my way up the face. Kind of stalled, set my line and patiently waited for the second barrel section to throw over me. Beautiful barreling vision, quick, intense tube and kick out in the channel super grateful to have gotten one of the good ones of the day. Look back and one of the French dudes, also named Tom, is fully shacked and comes out right next to me.
OCT 31
Woke up early, made it out to Peak, for the low tide rising session, time to get some barrels. Surf was really really fun, a little smaller than yesterday and more crowded but it is still barreling. Got a bunch of really nice long, deep barrel rides, traveled through the tube for a while but didn’t make it out of any. Happened on three or four occasions. Little bit of a bummer but the truth remains that I am not a great barrel rider. As the tide rose and waves stopped barreling, a bunch of beginners with their local surf instructors made it to the lineup, some taxid out by boat, and largely killed the vibe. They call out a set for their client and push them in, oftentimes the beginner falls on the drop or gets blasted by the section. Hard to watch perfect waves get botched over and over.
Moved down to Lakey Pipe, scene change, mindset change. Such a good, fun surf session. The waves are super punchy and fast. One or two little cover ups but nothing like a real barrel. The wave opened up for a turn or two out onto a really fast chunky shoulder, it’s a blast. Surfed for a while with Tom and Cody, Tom the Aussie, and of course the French rippers. Feels like a nice little crew of surfers to share waves with in town.
Ran into Miao on the beach and rolled with her to check out Periscopes, a right hand point like 10 minutes away. The waves are kinda working, the wind isn’t totally ruining the surf yet. There’s a couple guys out there ripping. This zone is so wave rich. Left barrels, perfect a-frames, and now a right point, plus more I haven’t seen yet around every corner. I’m too tired to surf but glad to check it out, she grabs her board and goes. Later on, drive around with Cody and check out a small skate park behind town.
It’s Halloween and nobody here gives a fuck. Cody and I, the only two Americans around, want to have some fun and celebrate. We have a couple beers at Fatmahs with Tom and end up joining up our party with the French dudes, Tom and Raoul, and some of their friends. We play drinking card games, their English is pretty good but there is still plenty of language barrier and it’s hilarious. The more we drink the more the communication is just short yells and laughter anyways. At the end of the night I end up losing a game that has me drink a revolting concoction of beer and a bunch of condiments and garlic from around the restaurant. Gag my way through it, and almost can’t finish the final bit that is mainly oils and hot sauce with chunks of garlic. The French boys are screaming “God Bless America!” and saluting me like I’m in the military. Great fun, total rowdy, boys night (there are no girls in Lakey Peak) hence the debauchery, solidified friendships with the French rippers!
The little village around Lakey Peak, fully set up for surfers, a few hotels and homestays, a few restaurants, is really small. Bigger than Desert Point but you can walk the length of the Lakey Beach in 10 minutes. Out front of course is Lakey Peak, the world class barreling A-frame, I’m only looking at the lefts. To the left of it, 5 minute paddle, is Lakey Pipe, a barreling left hander, kinda advanced wave that works when the swell picks up a little bit. There are sick waves ten minutes by scooter in either direction from here all with their own intricacies and beauty. Tons of fun to be had if you can find these waves in their correct window before the onshore wind knocks it all down. There’s a few options for getting food but the one I figure we’ll be at the most is Fatmahs. It’s one of the only ones that has a view of the waves, good selection of western and indo food, beers, a little cafe on the side, and games. The surfers staying at Lakeys cruising in and out of this hang out zone.
Around lunch time I realize there are a shit ton of kids on the beach. On my way to the crib many of them approach me and we begin a hilarious chat. Today is Sunday, means day off from school and an opportunity to practice English with all the gringo surfers/tourists at Lakey Peak. “What is your name? Where are you from? How long are you staying? Who did you come with?” It must be a school assignment because as soon as I finish answering these four questions, the next kid asks me the same thing. Answer these again and a third kid starts over. “Okay guys we can talk but you have to ask me different things, I’m not just gonna repeat myself over and over.” They’re real sweet and trying to raise money for their school, one invites me to come speak to the class as his guest. “Where is your school?” “Dompu, like an hour away.” Dompu was one of the towns I passed on my way here last night. “No thanks, I’m going to stay in Lakey Peak.”
Didn’t surf again, watched the sunset on our roof top with some beers. This is how the days go here. Surf early while the wind is good and then pray for a second sesh somewhere or just chill.
Oct 30
Today the swell is up, and Lakey Peak is doing Lakey Peak things. Remembering how the wind came up early yesterday, I set my alarm for 5 am. I need to maximize the clean surf window before it is too late. It’s low tide, just a handful of us surfers, the left is going into dry reef, kinda sketchy, you have to kick out early. “What am I doing here?” But since it was a full moon last night the tide is rising incredibly fast, bringing water over the reef and increasing the wave height as well. By 7am, waves are totally glassy and the surf is pumping 6-8ft barrels, California standards, perfect. Drop in and pull in. Guys are getting real good waves and the handful of us are in a great groove and rotation. A couple French dudes are ripping, Tom the Aussie is as well, such a good early morning surf sesh.
Got several waves, felt in rhythm, felt good, but also got pinched on the exit on many. Did manage a terrific left barrel. It was my turn to go and a big ol’ A-frame came right to me, maybe 6ish ft. Dropped in, held a drawn out bottom turn and made my way up the face. Kind of stalled, set my line and patiently waited for the second barrel section to throw over me. Beautiful barreling vision, quick, intense tube and kick out in the channel super grateful to have gotten one of the good ones of the day. Look back and one of the French dudes, also named Tom, is fully shacked and comes out right next to me.
This is a really good wave. A-frames peak up one after another in such a symmetrical way that it is hard to tell how many waves are in a set or really even see them coming. A beautiful wave could be approaching and you’d have no idea that 2 or 3 more identical waves were stacking behind. Real good surfers backdoor the first barrel section or take off under lip. They stay behind the curtain and weave through the second barrel section towards the end of the reef, barreled from start to finish. This is extremely difficult and technical, above my skill level, but something to strive towards. The way I surfed it was drawing off the bottom and staying kind of in the pocket ahead of the barrel and then pulling into the second barrel section with my line set. Really enjoyed this experience.
As the tide kept rising and rising, the wave barreled less and less. More and more people showed up, perhaps they were too scared of the low tide barrels of early, and the wave became a bigger version of yesterday’s rippable high performance wave. I noticed that the French rippers were no longer here but out at Lakey Pipe. I paddled over to check it out, smaller than Peak, 6ft, but much more consequential.
Lakey Pipe is a higher tide wave, not too high but definitely needs water on the reef to be safe enough to pull into the drainers. The wave is fucking hard to surf at first, once you get the hang of it, it still can be tricky.
At first glance, a deathly looking ledge up the reef barrels in like 6 inches of water. Some of these waves make it to where you sit and you can race down the line. Mainly what you are looking for are two peaks that merge together. If you catch the first, you backdoor the 2nd one as it barrels. If you take off on the 2nd, you can get barreled or surf a really fast punchy wave. Take off between the two and you go over the falls. Knowing where you’re at and learning how the reef doubles up is the name of the game. Blowing waves and struggling to get up and riding on a few I sit and watch the French dudes, and eventually ask them which ones are good. They kinda start showing me the ropes, they’ve been surfing this wave for weeks and have it dialed. (Raoul spent months here last year)
Not more so than Rajo, 14 years old, local quiksilver sponsored surfer, fully ripping. Every time I get a wave and kick out, he’s fully in the barrel getting spit out on the next wave and rips a huge turn. He’s a joy to surf with, he’s telling me which ones to go on and where to sit. Such a nice kid, smiling and laughing after every wave. He got the most barrels out of anyone today for sure, I saw him go in and out of at least eight.
This is such a fun wave too, much harder to surf than Peak, steep take off, pocket rides over shallow reef, while also trying to gauge how the swingers and ledgy peaks morph together into an intense barrel. I got the hang of it in the end and had a couple great rides but it was challenging, especially after the fatigue of a great session at Peak earlier. What an awesome set up. Low tide barrels at perfect Peak and as soon as the tide is too high for the barrel there, head to Pipe for more hollow waves.
After lunch all the photographers try to find you to sell you the footage/pics of your waves from the day’s session. There’s a guy shooting the right from the channel (when Pipe is on he occasionally turns and shoots that), a guy shooting the left from the channel, a guy taking videos from the tower and the left as well. Shelled out some money, supported them and it’s great to see yourself surfing. Hardly ever see myself going left.
I guess since I had a late breakfast/lunch with a coffee, I felt restless. Couldn't sleep or take a nap so decided to paddle out to Peak again for a second session. Super windy, the tide is dropping. “I’ll just go and surf for a little bit.” There’s a couple kids doing airs into the wind on the rights, blowing their tails, doing crazy shit. I’m thinking this will be fun, all the groms are here, should be a good time. The wave is impossible to surf. Same size as this morning but totally unruly and savage, the wind is howling and knocking down the wave, side/onshore, ribs up the face. Go for my first wave, a smaller one, the wind doesn’t let me in nicely, but holds me down on the pop up and I go over the falls. Don’t get pounded too hard but not a great start. All of a sudden the kids scram, I’m out here all alone now. A big set outside forms and I scramble outside to get through. On the duckdive the lip crashes onto my calf, now it hurts and is cramping real bad. The session now turns spooky, rogue sets breaking, still 6-8ft, windy, no one here. Force myself into a set wave, pick the correct angle and push my way down the wave navigating the horrible chop. Airdrop down the face, connect at the bottom and go down the chattery line for like two seconds, then kick out just before dry reef. This is so sketch, wtf am I doing out here. I’m gonna die and no one would know. Take the long way around the reef and paddle back to the beach. I thought this could be a cool solo sesh at windy Peak, but it ended up being actually really not cool. I don’t like surfing windy waves like this back home so I don’t know why I thought this would be enjoyable. Don’t ever need to relive that experience again.
Even so, this was a great day of surfing and I’m stoked. Great vibes with Tom and Cody, Tom and Raoul, the French rippers, and Tom and Sam the Aussie dudes I taxied over with. Everyone’s a homie and the waves were really fun today.
As the tide kept rising and rising, the wave barreled less and less. More and more people showed up, perhaps they were too scared of the low tide barrels of early, and the wave became a bigger version of yesterday’s rippable high performance wave. I noticed that the French rippers were no longer here but out at Lakey Pipe. I paddled over to check it out, smaller than Peak, 6ft, but much more consequential.
Lakey Pipe is a higher tide wave, not too high but definitely needs water on the reef to be safe enough to pull into the drainers. The wave is fucking hard to surf at first, once you get the hang of it, it still can be tricky.
At first glance, a deathly looking ledge up the reef barrels in like 6 inches of water. Some of these waves make it to where you sit and you can race down the line. Mainly what you are looking for are two peaks that merge together. If you catch the first, you backdoor the 2nd one as it barrels. If you take off on the 2nd, you can get barreled or surf a really fast punchy wave. Take off between the two and you go over the falls. Knowing where you’re at and learning how the reef doubles up is the name of the game. Blowing waves and struggling to get up and riding on a few I sit and watch the French dudes, and eventually ask them which ones are good. They kinda start showing me the ropes, they’ve been surfing this wave for weeks and have it dialed. (Raoul spent months here last year)
Not more so than Rajo, 14 years old, local quiksilver sponsored surfer, fully ripping. Every time I get a wave and kick out, he’s fully in the barrel getting spit out on the next wave and rips a huge turn. He’s a joy to surf with, he’s telling me which ones to go on and where to sit. Such a nice kid, smiling and laughing after every wave. He got the most barrels out of anyone today for sure, I saw him go in and out of at least eight.
This is such a fun wave too, much harder to surf than Peak, steep take off, pocket rides over shallow reef, while also trying to gauge how the swingers and ledgy peaks morph together into an intense barrel. I got the hang of it in the end and had a couple great rides but it was challenging, especially after the fatigue of a great session at Peak earlier. What an awesome set up. Low tide barrels at perfect Peak and as soon as the tide is too high for the barrel there, head to Pipe for more hollow waves.
After lunch all the photographers try to find you to sell you the footage/pics of your waves from the day’s session. There’s a guy shooting the right from the channel (when Pipe is on he occasionally turns and shoots that), a guy shooting the left from the channel, a guy taking videos from the tower and the left as well. Shelled out some money, supported them and it’s great to see yourself surfing. Hardly ever see myself going left.
I guess since I had a late breakfast/lunch with a coffee, I felt restless. Couldn't sleep or take a nap so decided to paddle out to Peak again for a second session. Super windy, the tide is dropping. “I’ll just go and surf for a little bit.” There’s a couple kids doing airs into the wind on the rights, blowing their tails, doing crazy shit. I’m thinking this will be fun, all the groms are here, should be a good time. The wave is impossible to surf. Same size as this morning but totally unruly and savage, the wind is howling and knocking down the wave, side/onshore, ribs up the face. Go for my first wave, a smaller one, the wind doesn’t let me in nicely, but holds me down on the pop up and I go over the falls. Don’t get pounded too hard but not a great start. All of a sudden the kids scram, I’m out here all alone now. A big set outside forms and I scramble outside to get through. On the duckdive the lip crashes onto my calf, now it hurts and is cramping real bad. The session now turns spooky, rogue sets breaking, still 6-8ft, windy, no one here. Force myself into a set wave, pick the correct angle and push my way down the wave navigating the horrible chop. Airdrop down the face, connect at the bottom and go down the chattery line for like two seconds, then kick out just before dry reef. This is so sketch, wtf am I doing out here. I’m gonna die and no one would know. Take the long way around the reef and paddle back to the beach. I thought this could be a cool solo sesh at windy Peak, but it ended up being actually really not cool. I don’t like surfing windy waves like this back home so I don’t know why I thought this would be enjoyable. Don’t ever need to relive that experience again.
Even so, this was a great day of surfing and I’m stoked. Great vibes with Tom and Cody, Tom and Raoul, the French rippers, and Tom and Sam the Aussie dudes I taxied over with. Everyone’s a homie and the waves were really fun today.
OCT 31
Woke up early, made it out to Peak, for the low tide rising session, time to get some barrels. Surf was really really fun, a little smaller than yesterday and more crowded but it is still barreling. Got a bunch of really nice long, deep barrel rides, traveled through the tube for a while but didn’t make it out of any. Happened on three or four occasions. Little bit of a bummer but the truth remains that I am not a great barrel rider. As the tide rose and waves stopped barreling, a bunch of beginners with their local surf instructors made it to the lineup, some taxid out by boat, and largely killed the vibe. They call out a set for their client and push them in, oftentimes the beginner falls on the drop or gets blasted by the section. Hard to watch perfect waves get botched over and over.
Moved down to Lakey Pipe, scene change, mindset change. Such a good, fun surf session. The waves are super punchy and fast. One or two little cover ups but nothing like a real barrel. The wave opened up for a turn or two out onto a really fast chunky shoulder, it’s a blast. Surfed for a while with Tom and Cody, Tom the Aussie, and of course the French rippers. Feels like a nice little crew of surfers to share waves with in town.
Ran into Miao on the beach and rolled with her to check out Periscopes, a right hand point like 10 minutes away. The waves are kinda working, the wind isn’t totally ruining the surf yet. There’s a couple guys out there ripping. This zone is so wave rich. Left barrels, perfect a-frames, and now a right point, plus more I haven’t seen yet around every corner. I’m too tired to surf but glad to check it out, she grabs her board and goes. Later on, drive around with Cody and check out a small skate park behind town.
It’s Halloween and nobody here gives a fuck. Cody and I, the only two Americans around, want to have some fun and celebrate. We have a couple beers at Fatmahs with Tom and end up joining up our party with the French dudes, Tom and Raoul, and some of their friends. We play drinking card games, their English is pretty good but there is still plenty of language barrier and it’s hilarious. The more we drink the more the communication is just short yells and laughter anyways. At the end of the night I end up losing a game that has me drink a revolting concoction of beer and a bunch of condiments and garlic from around the restaurant. Gag my way through it, and almost can’t finish the final bit that is mainly oils and hot sauce with chunks of garlic. The French boys are screaming “God Bless America!” and saluting me like I’m in the military. Great fun, total rowdy, boys night (there are no girls in Lakey Peak) hence the debauchery, solidified friendships with the French rippers!
Nov 1
Shitty hangover, super tired. First hangover of my 30s I think. Cody forces me to get out of bed to go surf Peak. Really glad I did because it’s rippable and clean, smaller than yesterday, super playful. It got crowded again with the same kind of crowd as yesterday, the beginners getting pushed into waves as well as some agro guys. Just sucks that when the waves get small more people show up and clog up the space. Gotta take the bigger days when you get them because that’s when you’ll actually catch more waves.
Waves of hangover throughout the day, took a long nap, rested basically all day. Went back and paid my share of the tab from last night. Really feeling settled into the pace of life at Lakey Peak. Early morning wake up, check the waves from bed, surf while the wind cooperates, then eat, followed by chill in the shade/indoors, stay out of the 92 degree sun while the wind blows all day long. A nice sunset and dinner with friends.
Got out to Peak around 8 am, stepped on something weird on the reef. There’s like a hundred small fiberglass looking bristles sticking out of several toes. Not sure what it could be, maybe some sort of calcium carbonate fibers that make up the structure of some kind of coral. It sucks and it’s itchy. The wind is kinda already up, the wave is textured and crumbly and way, way smaller than any of the days I’ve been here thus far. I don’t like how my board feels moving across the water so I just paddle in. If it’s gonna be small and windy today might as well go try a new spot.
Drive up the road to check out Nunga Dora and Cobblestones. Both these waves definitely only work on higher tides, and it’s still too low right now. By the time the tide is high enough to surf one of these spots, the wind is sure to be howling to the point of unsurfable. As I pass the town of Nunga Dora a funeral is underway. The whole town, it seems, maybe 200 people are crowding the street as a coffin is brought out and paraded down to the cemetery, on guys’ shoulders, under the shade of a little cloth tent. Road is totally blocked, can’t get passed, and have no choice but to watch all this go down. Most people are more dressed up than I’m used to seeing the locals. Men in linens and little hats, women in their garb and hijabs with nice floral patterns and lace.
Back in town Lakey Pipe is kinda working. It’s not barreling at all, high tide, but it is like waist high, strong side shore winds, as the wave peels down the line like a pointbreak. Take out the 6’6”, first time surfing it since G-Land, and have a blast. Hardly anyone is out and I get like a hundred perfect little waist high peelers, stalling with my arm in the wave face for the pocket, trimming for as long as I can ‘til the wave gets too shallow. It’s total small wave appreciation day, first time I’ve had fun surfing small waves since being in Indo. So glad I found this little window today.
At lunch at Fatmahs, I befriended a little local kid named Munga, super cool kid, psyched to play some games. He grabs all the cards from the game box, he takes one half and I the other half, and we begin an epic series of wars by slapping cards on the table. There are no real rules but he always ends up winning every round. When he got tired of this, he grabbed the chess set and battled there for a bit. Here you’d take a piece and knock over as many pieces as you could, always with him getting the final knock and winning the game in the last move. After each victory, I’d pour him a shot of the lightly sweetened lemonade I was drinking, we’d cheers, and take a sip. The sour sip would own him every time, his face contorted and twisted, he’d beg for sugar but I’d always say no. Our last game was just stacking up poker chips taller and taller until it’d fall over like Jenga. He’s a good kid and we spent a good chunk of time playing fun games like this at Fatmahs. When he got tired of this he disappeared.
Surfed the Ordainer at Peak today for a fun time. The waves are like chest high and glassy. Meet Joey in the water, a 25 year old from Mission Viejo who came in last night. He recognizes AH vessels and knows of the Ordainer. We trade boards for a bit and now I’m on his 5’2” twin fin skating around the wave. It is the shortest board I’ve ever surfed, a challenge to ride but good fun flopping around. A good surf hang and always fun to nerd out on some boards when the waves are playful. The 6’6” is way too long for this wave though, it wants big long lines. This wave is definitely a shortboarding wave looking to be ripped high performance style. Still fun to try new things, I’d grown tired of surfing the shortboard 5 times here. Who would’ve thunk that Joey's first ride on an Ordainer would be at Lakey Peak of all places?
Go in with a slight pain in my shoulder and joints. All the paddling and surfing over the last couple days are starting to add up, most of them have been super long sessions, maximizing the good wind opportunities. Plus all the crouching from yesterday’s small wave sesh has my knees kinda rickety. I need to start strengthening my knees like now for longevity.
No surf today, resting the shoulders and knees. The surf is waist high at Peak and that’s the swell magnet of the area, meaning everywhere else in the area is probably small as fuck. Watched the sunrise, hardly slept last night as there was a rooster that couldn’t chill out. Tom goes to paddle out and I head up the tower and film a couple clips of him. Nice opportunity to explore the reef at low tide and see the beauty of a world underwater that we surf over.
Went to Lelas Warung, a proper local eatery in the front of her house, dusty road, little wooden tables and plastic chairs. We heard the portions were massive and cheap. Chickens run around, I wonder if I’m eating one of their friends, and a lazy cat chills by, as I eat a big ass plate of noodles.
Yesterday I saw Nando, the caretaker of our little villa, carrying a miniature 3ft long catamaran, one larger wooden canoe with a mast attached to a smaller one by its side. A plastic diamond shaped sail wrapped up in rope. He’s pretty proud of it. “What are you gonna do with that thing?” He tells me that tomorrow at high tide they’re going to sail the boats across the bay in Hu’u. Anyways, Cody and I are off to Hu’u to find the boat race and see what this is all about.
Driving through the town, where all the locals of the area live, people wave at us, little kids come rushing out calling out “mister mister!” The town is poor, bumpy dusty dirt road throughout, animals walking around, tin roofs on humble wood/brick houses. The trickling stream and largely dried out riverbed along town is filled with plastic and trash. Lots of missing teeth, it’s a whole different world.
We make it to the cove where the boats are at the edge of town. The SE onshore wind that blows all day is predictable and the cove is situated perfectly for this orientation to take the boats across. There are like 5 or 6 boats in the water, they all take off at different times. I don't think it’s a race. Probably more of a hobby that a bunch of the men in town partake in on Saturdays. We don’t find Nando but watch for a while as boats glide across the cove into the hands of screaming kids. Really wholesome picture and beautiful in the blue water surrounded by the anchored fishing boats. As the boating comes to an end, we are surrounded by kids and begin playing on the shore. We’re teaching them to skip rocks and count in English, good clean fun. They wrestle each other for the good skipping stones and sometimes run into the water as they throw the rock. Good clean fun. Real nice way to spend an afternoon away from Lakey Peak.
In the evening we invited Aussies Tom and Sam up to our roof for some beers at sunset. The 5 of us hung out for a while and then went down to the beach to the big bonfire we got invited to with 2 roman candle fireworks bought at the store below. It’s basically a wand that shoots 5 rounds of colorful fireworks. Cody and I were to have a battle, run across the sand aiming the sticks at each other as they fired. We lit the fuse and started running. The first projectile sails over Cody’s head and explodes in a big colorful burst into the outdoor seating area of the restaurant next door. Women and girls scream as I see the back lit silhouette of their hijabs in the flashing light. Holy shit I had no idea they were there, did not expect it to explode, the roman candles I remember were more like colorful bullets, like a hot paintball. Everyone is screaming to stop, my mistake, I turn 180 and shoot the rest of the 5 projectiles over the ocean for a nice tame fireworks show. No one got hurt thankfully and I didn’t get in trouble somehow. For one split second I thought I royally fucked up. Apologized as best as I could, embarrassed.
We ate a delicious grilled fish feast and were joined by Joey the Californian and David from New York. Local fresh sambal, and sweet and sour soy sauces to go along with the rice and fish. Several of the local kids, including Rajo, brought their own little fish they caught and grilled it with us. Went next door to the bar to play pool and got totally wrecked by some of the local kids. They must play here all the time and know all the weird bumps and dips in the table because they sunk every ball. I looked away for one minute, look back at the table and the game was over. Great day spent between Hu’u and Lakeys.
Nov 5
Lakey Peak ruled! Love the fact that the waves you surf are right in front and have to bust no real missions to get to good waves. Of course this convenience can make it crowded but I was cool with it for the most part. Similarly to G-Land, I was staying with and got to know most of the surfers I was sharing the waves with so it really was just surfing around with homies. Getting stoked on my friends’ rides is a part of surfing I really enjoy when the waves are good.
For dinner a crew of us sat at Fatmahs and listened to Luke, aka froth dog, a South African, tell us stories of all the great surf spots he’s been to around the world. I met him on the first day in the lineup and he would hoot and holler at every good wave he’d see. He has got to be the most enthusiastic surfer, loves every minute of everything, and does not hesitate to call a wave a perfect barrel. “Look how deep I am in this fucking barrel!” “No one out!” “World class wave!” are some of his most used phrases as he shows us photos on his instagram. You cannot help but laugh, at first trying to hide it out of respect, but after his show continues and continues you cannot hold it in and everyone’s laughing. He is so true to himself, some might find it too much, but I really respected his authenticity and love of the game. He gave us great pointers on surfing in the UK and Ireland as well as some of the life lessons he’s learned on the way.
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